Photographing World War 2 Veteran Philip Truelove - Bomb Disposal

Last week I drove to Bath, Somerset to meet and photograph a hero: Philip Truelove, a Second World War veteran who served in 215 Platoon, No. 10 Bomb Disposal Company, Royal Engineers.

I'd been contacted by his son Jez, a keen photographer himself, after he received the Fotospeed newsletter announcing my new partnership as one of their Ambassadors. He clicked through to my website, saw mention of the 39-45 Portraits Project, and got in touch. We exchanged a few emails and agreed a date for me to visit Philip at his home and take his portrait.

I'd been looking forward to this for weeks. I'm no longer actively touring the UK photographing WW2 veterans, but if I'm contacted about doing so, I'll always make the effort to get it done. Meeting Philip today was such a treat.

A warm welcome

As planned, I arrived at midday and left my kit in the car for now. Jez met me at the door.

"My dad is very excited about this," he said, and then led me into the living room, where I was greeted with a beaming smile and Philip making the effort to get up from his chair to greet me.

"Well, hello Sir" was all that was needed, and away we went. The conversation flowed easily as Philip recounted stories of joining up and memories of friends, and at times he became a little teary.

I asked him what made him want to join Bomb Disposal.

"I didn't want to have to kill anyone," he told me.

At one point he spoke about a time he was guiding a group of German soldiers who had surrendered, moving them to a new location. Philip was clearing the way ahead, making sure it was safe, when one of the soldiers stepped over the white safety line he'd put in place to go to the toilet in a bush. Moments later there was an explosion. The soldier had stepped on a mine.

"That was my saddest day of the whole war," Philip said.

Taking the portrait

We chatted over a cup of tea, and then, with Jez's help, I brought my kit in from the car and set up. Philip was a natural in front of the camera and clearly enjoyed the experience.

Space in the room was very tight, so tight that I couldn't use a tripod as I normally would. Instead I had to lean back against the patio doors and hold the camera about six inches from my chin, just to maintain eye contact with him through the lens.

By 1.02pm I was packed up and heading out the door. It wasn't a long visit, but it was more than enough quality time together. It was also a very hot day, and I was mindful that Philip was wearing his suit jacket and medals for the occasion. Despite my concerns, he was determined we should do this today, and I'm so glad we did.

KIT USED

  • Fuji X-T5

  • Fuji 33mm f/1.4 WR

  • Westcott FJ400 Strobe

  • Westcott 4’ x 3’ Rapid Box Switch Softbox

  • Westcott X-Drop Pro Background Support

  • Westcott Vintage Grey by Glyn Dewis (Background Material)

  • Westcott Silver / White Collapsible Reflector

🚨 Check out my full Kit List ( CLICK HERE )

What comes next

I'll be heading back in just under two weeks to hand deliver Philip's portrait, mounted and presented thanks to my friend Trevor at West Street Picture Framing in Axminster. First, though, I'll be editing the portrait later today.

Philip turns 100 years old on the 21st December this year, and in a couple of weeks the street he lives on will be holding a party to celebrate his birthday early. That alone tells you the kind of man he is, when an entire street wants to celebrate his birthday.

I can't wait to head back and see him again. In the meantime, I'll be reading his self-published book, The Chronicles of a Sapper, which recounts his memories from when he joined up in January 1945.

7 Portraits Tips NOTHING to do with your Camera

I've spent a fair bit of money over the years on lighting, cameras, and lenses. They're nice to have, don't get me wrong, but none of it means anything if the person in front of your camera isn't comfortable.

I learned this properly a few years ago, and it changed the way I work.

If someone isn't comfortable with you, it shows in the pictures straight away. They go stiff, they look posed, and no amount of expensive lighting or technical wizardry fixes that. Comfort comes first. The camera comes second. Always.

Here are seven things I've picked up through trial and error that genuinely improve your portraits. No complicated techniques, no expensive gear, just things that make a real difference.

1. Give yourself time before picking up the camera

I never go straight in with the camera. Before I even think about lighting or where someone's going to sit or stand, I spend time with them first, just talking. Sometimes that's ten or fifteen minutes, sometimes longer. Sometimes I'll meet someone for a coffee beforehand purely to get to know them.

This really clicked for me during my 39-45 Portraits Project. I was photographing people who'd lived through the most extraordinary times, and honestly, I just wanted to hear their stories. I'd talk with them for a good while before picking up the camera. There was no grand plan behind it, I was just genuinely interested. But when I looked back at the pictures afterwards, I noticed something: the more time I'd spent talking with someone, the better their portrait turned out. They actually looked like themselves, not a posed version. A great portrait starts with a real conversation, not with the camera.

2. Ask people about themselves

If you're meeting someone for the first time and you're not quite sure what to say, here's something that works well: ask them about their world. Their work, their family, their hobbies, what they get up to at weekends. People generally love talking about themselves, and when you're genuinely curious, the conversation just flows.

I've got a bit of a fascination with TV programmes about surgery. In a recent episode of Surgeons at the Edge of Life, I noticed something interesting. Just before a patient goes under anaesthetic, the anaesthetist doesn't start talking about the operation. They ask about the patient's family, their holidays, their life, and the patient drifts off completely calm. People feel far more at ease talking about themselves than almost anything else.

There's a little phrase I keep coming back to: MMFI, "Make Me Feel Important." It's not manipulative. It's just a reminder that people relax when someone shows a genuine interest in them.

3. Keep talking while you're actually shooting

This might sound a bit odd at first, but I never have a moment where everything goes quiet and still just before I take the portrait. There's no "ready" moment. That approach has never worked for me. The conversation just keeps going right through the shoot, even once the lighting's sorted and I'm ready to take the shot.

I did a shoot recently with Harry Anderson, a potter here in Lyme Regis. Instead of posing him for the camera, I simply asked him to carry on with what he was already doing, smoothing down a piece of pottery. I let him keep going, and every now and again I asked him to turn his gaze towards the camera, but we were chatting the whole time. That's when the best pictures happen. Not when everything's gone still and formal, but when someone's genuinely being themselves.

4. Try not to overdirect

Something I've noticed time and time again: the more you tell someone exactly what to do, the more uncomfortable they become. The moment you say "stand like this," "put your hands here," or the funniest of all, "look relaxed," someone who isn't used to being photographed will tense up almost immediately. You can watch it happen.

You might spend twenty minutes building up real comfort and ease, and one single instruction like that can undo the whole lot. Keep your directions to an absolute minimum and keep the conversation running instead. Let people find their own natural position and expression in their own time.

5. Be willing to adapt

I remember photographing a veteran who, day to day, always wore a shirt and a dicky bow. That was just how he dressed, that was him. When I turned up, sure enough, that's exactly what he had on. He mentioned to me almost in passing, "Do you want me to put my jacket and medals on?" But I could hear it in the way he said it, he didn't really want to. That wasn't him day to day. So I said, "No, we'll just photograph you as you are." And the pictures were so much better for it.

If I'd asked him to change into something that wasn't really him, he wouldn't have looked anywhere near as comfortable. Learn to properly listen and photograph people as they actually present themselves, not how you think a portrait of them is supposed to look. Read what the person in front of you actually needs, not what you'd planned on the way there.

6. Your own calm matters more than you think

Years ago I used to teach conflict management, and there's a model from that world called Betari's Box that's stuck with me ever since, because it applies just as much to a portrait shoot as it does to any difficult situation. It goes like this: my attitude affects my behaviour, my behaviour affects your attitude, which affects your behaviour, and round it goes again. It's a loop constantly feeding itself.

If you turn up stressed, that stress comes out in your behaviour whether you mean it to or not. The person you're photographing picks up on it, and it affects how they behave in front of you. Once that loop starts running in the wrong direction, you're on a loser from the start, and no amount of good lighting fixes it.

But it works the other way round too. If you show up calm, even if you're not feeling entirely calm inside, that calm comes out in your behaviour and feeds into their attitude. The way I get to that calm is by keeping things simple. Don't try to be clever with your lighting or overcomplicate your setup, especially not the first time you're photographing someone. Save the clever stuff for the second or third time, once you've got to know each other. A simple setup keeps you calm, and your calm is what the whole loop depends on.

7. Under-promise and over-deliver

When someone asks how long a shoot's going to take, I'll usually say around an hour and a half as an example, but I'll aim to be done and dusted after about an hour. Go before you're expected to go, rather than overstaying your welcome.

I heard some nightmare stories during the veterans project around this. Photographers would turn up at someone's house and stay for several hours without really reading the room. When I spoke to one of the veterans afterwards, he told me it had all gone on far too long and he'd been exhausted by the end of it. It clearly hadn't been a good experience, and the photographer concerned hadn't picked up on any of that. It all comes right back to people skills, reading the room, reading the person, and knowing when enough is enough. Under-promise on the time, over-deliver on the experience. Leave while they still want a bit more, rather than after they've had quite enough.

It's not about the kit

If you're a portrait photographer looking to improve, maybe the next thing worth reading isn't about photography at all. Maybe it's about people.

People skills are the most underrated, most forgotten skill in this whole craft. Over the years it's become all about the kit, but the kit really is secondary. People skills come first, and the portraits follow on naturally from there.

Check out the full video above for a deeper dive into these tips, and let me know in the comments which of these makes the biggest difference in your own work.

Cheers,
Glyn

📷 Photographing Lesser Known Lyme Regis with my Drone 🚁

Headed out early this morning (Sunday 12th) to catch up with me ole mate Steve Healy, but this time to photograph a lesser-known and photographed area of Lyme Regis ... Cannington Viaduct.

Being in the middle of a heat-wave here in the UK, with bright sunshine and few clouds from early morning, I knew tihs was going to be a contrasty black and white and headed out armed with both my camera ... and a last minute decision to take my drone.

Because of the landscape, I ended up only using the drone, which with 3 fully charged batteries gave me lots of time to manoeuvre around and find a composition I was happy with.

"Cannington Viaduct was built from mass concrete for the Axminster to Lyme Regis railway, opening in 1903 after construction problems caused part of the structure to sink and require reinforcement. Trains crossed its ten arches until the branch line closed in 1965, and the pioneering structure is now Grade II listed."

Kit

  • DJI Mini 3 Pro

  • Camera to to Jpeg + Raw

Software

  • Raw Conversion using DxO Pure Raw

  • Edited in Lightroom and Nik 9 Silver Efex Pro + Photoshop

I Am Lyme: Beach Yoga at Sunrise

There's something about photographing people doing what they love, in the place they love doing it, that never gets old.

That's exactly what happened a coyuple of weeks back, early morning when I met up with Pip, a local yoga teacher in Lyme Regis, for the latest instalment of my I Am Lyme project.

An Early Start on the Beach

Pip teaches beach yoga here in Lyme Regis, and there's no better way to capture that than actually being on the beach while the light is do`ing something special. So we met early, before the town had properly woken up, while the tide and the light were both in our favour.

The plan was simple. Get set up before Pip's students arrived, grab the shots, and get out of the way so she could get on with teaching her class. In reality, that gave us a matter of minutes. Her students were already turning up on the beach as we were shooting, which meant no second chances and no faffing about. Everything had to be right first time.

This is one of the things I love about the I Am Lyme project. It's not about staged studio perfection, it's about real people, in real moments, in and around the town. Pip fitting me in around her actual class, rather than a separate posed session, is exactly the kind of authenticity the project is built on.

The Lighting Setup

Shooting on a beach at sunrise sounds romantic, and it is, but it's also a technical puzzle. You've got a huge, ever-changing light source (the sky) and you need your flash to work with it, not fight it.

Here's what I used:

Camera right: A Westcott FJ800 fired into a Rapid Box Switch 4' x 3' softbox.

This was doing the heavy lifting as my main light on Pip.

Camera left, rear of Pip: A Westcott FJ400 II into a 1' x 4' Rapid Box Switch softbox.

This one was there purely to fake a bit of rim and separation, mimicking natural sunlight catching Pip from behind.

To get the aperture I wanted (f/2.8) at native sync speed, I dropped in a 4 stop NiSi ND filter.

Without it, shooting that wide open at sunrise would have blown out completely, even with the softer early morning light.

Both flashes were run in TTL, with the rear FJ400 dialled up to +1 stop compensation. That extra push made sure the rim light actually read as light, rather than getting lost against the brightness of the beach and sky.

Why It Worked

With only a few minutes to play with, having the lighting pre-set and tested before Pip even arrived (5.30am) made all the difference. There was no time to chase settings once she was in position, ready to switch straight into teaching mode. Everything from stands to softboxes to flash power was locked in beforehand, so once Pip stepped onto her mark, it was simply a case of composing, shooting, and trusting the setup.

It's a good reminder that a "quick" shoot still needs proper preparation behind it. The speed on the day only works because of the planning that happens before anyone presses a shutter button.

Part of Something Bigger

This shoot with Pip adds another face and another story to I Am Lyme, my ongoing project documenting the people connected to this town. Different job, different backdrop, same idea: real Lyme Regis people, captured as they are.

More shoots to come soon.

Photographing Harry the Potter for I am Lyme

Such a gentleman.

The delightful Harry Anderson (@harrytownmillpottery on instagram) of Town Mill Pottery, Lyme Regis, photographed for the I am Lyme project.

Harry Anderson - Town Mill Pottery, Lyme Regis

💡 The lighting

I kept things simple here, one light only.

I positioned it so the feathered edge lit Harry, giving soft light with shape through highlight and shadow.

This also avoided flooding the area with light and flattening the picture.

The position also matched the direction of the lamp light bouncing off the wall behind him, visible in the shot.

Town Mill Pottery has such a calming feel to it, and talking with Harry is the same. I wanted the lighting to reflect that, soft and subtle, hence the 4' x 3' softbox.

❓Why the tripod

As always, the camera was on a tripod; not for sharpness, but so I could keep eye contact with Harry throughout. Hiding behind the viewfinder would have brought on that "I'm about to be photographed" feeling, and I wanted to avoid that.

I haven't looked through a viewfinder in years. I trust the kit to nail focus, and I can check it on the iPad anyway.

📷 Kit

  • Westcott FJ250 Strobe

  • Westcott 4' x 3' Rapid Box Switch Softbox

  • TTL, -1 flash compensation

  • Fuji X-T5 with 33mm f/2.8 (roughly 50mm equivalent) at f/2.8

  • Tethered into Capture One Mobile on my iPad Pro

Big thanks to my mate Steve Healy for the Behind the Scenes pictures.

BenQ Screenbar Halo 2 - The PERFECT Lamp for your Workspace

If you’re anything like me, you’re probably pretty particular about your workspace. Between two monitors, a keyboard, a mouse, and all the usual accessories, desk space disappears almost immediately.

Because of that, having a traditional desktop lamp has always been completely out of the question.

There’s simply nowhere to put one.

So when I was asked to have a look at the BenQ ScreenBar Halo 2, I’ll be honest, I was massively sceptical.

I half expected to dislike it entirely.

My main concern was screen calibration, which is something I’m constantly talking to people about, making sure your screen is set to the right brightness and that your colours are spot on.

Surely, sticking a light bar right on top of the screen is going to throw light directly onto the panel, wash out the colours, create loads of glare, and completely undo all that careful calibration? It just didn’t seem like a good idea.

But … I was / I am, genuinely and unexpectedly surprised.

It turns out the way this thing is designed is actually really clever; the light it produces doesn’t touch the screen at all, it projects forward, illuminating the desk area right in front of the monitor without a hint of screen reflection or glare.

It’s like having a proper desktop lamp built directly into your monitor, completely out of the way, without actually affecting your calibrated display.

Genuinely, the biggest change has been how much more comfortable my eyes feel. Normally, I’d have to keep the ceiling lights on in my office just to take the edge off, but there are times I’d rather not have the whole room lit up … first thing in the morning and late in the evening.

The ScreenBar Halo 2 has a backlight built into the rear, which throws a soft glow onto the wall and the area behind the screen, balancing out the contrast so you’re not just staring at a bright rectangle in an otherwise pitch-black room.

Because of that backlighting, I can now comfortably work in a dimly lit office with just the screen bar on. My eyes feel relaxed, and I never get that sensation of straining or tiredness creeping in.

As a real bonus, it means I can leave my office door open when I’m working very early in the morning or late at night, without worrying about bright ceiling lights spilling out into the hallway and waking everyone else up i.e. Anne and our cat, Mabel; the light stays very contained to your immediate space.

[IMAGE SUGGESTION 2: A shot from behind or the side of the monitor, highlighting the rear backlight casting a soft, balanced glow onto the wall behind the screen.]

At the moment, I’ve got it sitting on the monitor I do most of my retouching on. I’ve settled on a fairly simple setup, with the colour temperature dialled in at around 6,000 Kelvin, which matches the daylight temperature I use for my screen and the ceiling lights I used to rely on.

What’s great is that there’s no fiddly attachment or screws involved. It balances on top of the screen using a counterweight and takes about five seconds to position. If I ever want to move it across to my second monitor, I can do it instantly.

It also has a really neat ultrasonic motion sensor, so it knows when you’re sitting in front of it and when you’ve left the room. You can set it to switch off after a short while when you walk away, then the moment you come back, it detects you and pops back on.

It’s one of those features that sounds like a minor detail but ends up being really satisfying to use.

Technical Details and Features

For those who like to dig into the specifics, here’s a full breakdown of what the BenQ ScreenBar Halo 2 offers:

  • Asymmetrical Optical Technology: Designed with an 18° cut-off angle, an 8-section reflector, and 12 precision lenses. This ensures the desk area gets a consistent 500 lux of light (covering a wide 85cm x 50cm area) while maintaining zero glare on the screen.

  • Tri-Zone Backlight: The rear ambient light features an upgraded tri-zone design, offering 423% wider coverage than the previous generation to perfectly balance wall contrast and ease eye fatigue.

  • Colour Temperature Control: Both the front and rear lights are fully tuneable from a warm 2700K up to a crisp 6500K, adjustable in precise 25K increments.

  • Colour Accuracy (CRI): Uses full-spectrum LED chips with a Colour Rendering Index of Ra≥95 and a Colour Fidelity Index of Rf≥96 for the front light, ensuring colours in your space look highly accurate.

  • Smart Automation and Motion Sensors: Equipped with real-time auto-dimming that senses ambient conditions and supplements the room to the recommended 500 lux standard. The built-in ultrasonic motion sensors handle presence detection to turn the light on and off automatically.

  • Wireless Controller: A digital touch puck that lets you control power, brightness, colour temperature, and light zones independently or together. It includes a “Favourite Mode” memory button and runs on a rechargeable lithium battery via a Type-C cable, lasting around three months per charge.

  • Universal Zinc-Alloy Clamp: Designed to rest on top of the screen using a gravity counterweight rather than a clipping mechanism. Works with ultra-narrow bezels, avoids blocking webcam lenses, and fits flat or curved monitors (1000R to 1800R) with thicknesses ranging from 0.43 to 6 cm.

  • Power Input: Powered via a non-removable 150cm USB-C cable (5V, max 3A, max 15W).

  • Safety Certifications: Certified flicker-free (IEEE PAR 1789 standard) and carries dual EU certification for zero blue light hazard (IEC/TR 62778, IEC/EN 62471).

I didn’t even know I needed it

If you’ve ever thought about adding a desk lamp to your setup but ruled it out because you just don’t have the room, or you’ve tried regular lamps and found the harsh contrast leaves your eyes feeling tired, I’d genuinely recommend giving this one a look.

I didn’t know I needed it, but I’m really happy to have it as part of my set up, meaning I can leave my office lights off and still having exactly the right environment for editing.

Brilliant!

Doing This ONE THING Transformed My Photography

If someone walked up to you right now and asked what kind of photographer you are, what would you say? Would you have a clear, confident answer, or would you hesitate and mumble something like, "Oh, I do a bit of everything"?

There's nothing wrong with being versatile. But I genuinely believe there's one thing that can transform you as a photographer, and that's starting a personal project.

I don't mean a client job. I certainly don't mean something you do just to get likes or feed an algorithm. I mean a project that's entirely yours. Something that means something to you. Something that comes from genuine curiosity.

Finding your identity and focus

A personal project gives you an identity. It tells the world, and more importantly it tells you, what you stand for and what you actually care about. It's the difference between someone who takes photos and someone who's using a camera to say something.

It also brings real practical benefits.

You get focus. When you have a clear purpose, every shoot has direction. You're no longer wandering around hoping for a great shot. You know exactly what you're looking for and why.

You develop naturally. Because you return to the same subject or theme again and again, you get better almost without trying. You start to see things differently, you experiment more, and your technical skills sharpen alongside your creative eye. It's the difference between going to the gym now and then and actually following a proper training programme.

And it keeps you going. There will be times when your photography feels flat, or when paid work starts to feel routine. A personal project gives you somewhere to go. It keeps you creatively alive and keeps that spark of motivation lit.

The power of a genuine purpose

Let me give you an example of a project that became one of the most meaningful things I've ever done. It went far beyond anything I imagined.

It was called the 39-45 Portraits Project. Entirely self-funded and self-initiated, the goal was to travel the length and breadth of the UK to find, photograph, and honour surviving Second World War veterans. I wanted to give them and their families a timeless portrait, completely free of charge, as my way of saying thank you.

What happened next wasn't planned. The project went on to receive national press coverage, and a selection of the portraits was displayed by the BBC during the televised King's VE Day Concert in 2025.

None of that recognition was the goal. The goal was always the veterans. People can sense when something is genuine, and that's exactly why the project resonated the way it did.

The moment a personal project becomes about you rather than the subject, it stops being a personal project. It just becomes self-promotion in disguise. A true personal project has to come from a place of authenticity, not from a marketing plan wrapped in hashtags.

Closer to home: the I am Lyme project

Your project doesn't have to be a grand, sweeping national concept to matter. It can come straight from the place you call home.

Right now I'm working on a new project called I am Lyme. The idea is simple. I'm photographing the people who make up the fabric of Lyme Regis. The fishermen, the boat makers, the cafe owners, the bar staff, the swimming groups, and the characters you see walking around town who make the place what it is.

I'd already spent time capturing the location itself, the seascapes and the harbour, and now the people side is building its own momentum, with one person recommending the next as word spreads. The plan is to bring it all together for an exhibition in the summer of 2027 at the Jubilee Pavilion in Lyme Regis.

If you're taking on a project that involves photographing people in your community, I'd recommend putting together a simple presentation folder. Mine contains the project logo, a short written outline of what the project is and why I'm doing it, an explanation of what the images will be used for, and a small selection of sample portraits.

When you ask people to be part of something, they need to trust you first. A simple folder does a huge amount of work before you've even started talking, because it shows you're serious, considered, and that their contribution genuinely matters.

How to choose your project

If you're wondering where to start, look at your own life. What are you already passionate about outside of photography?

If you love sport, look at your local grassroots football club, an athletics team, or a boxing gym. The effort and passion behind the scenes there is a compelling body of work waiting to be captured. If you live somewhere with a unique history, a particular landscape, or a community that doesn't often get noticed, start there. The best projects grow out of things you already care about, because that care shows in the work every single time.

Personal projects might never leave your hard drive. They might not make you famous. That's completely fine. What they will do is keep you sharp, keep you motivated, and remind you exactly why you picked up a camera in the first place.

So stop putting it off and just start. You genuinely don't know where it might take you.

I'm Touring with WeX for their Summer Roadshow 2026

This summer I'm hitting the road with Wex Photo Video as part of their Summer Roadshow 2026, a series of in-store talks, live demos and hands-on photography experiences across Wex stores. I'd love to see you at one of the dates.

I'm presenting at eleven locations across the UK between July and September. In Edinburgh I'm opening with a talk, and at every other stop I'm on the shopfloor throughout the day with my live demo, "No Studio, No Problem: Classic Portraits with Minimal Kit."

Where I'll be

Here are all the dates I'm presenting at:

What to expect on the day

Each roadshow day brings together leading camera brands and accessory manufacturers, so you can explore the latest cameras, lenses, accessories and imaging technology all in one place. You'll be able to meet brand experts, get personalised buying advice, ask technical questions and pick up practical shooting tips to help you get more from your kit. There are live demonstrations on the shopfloor throughout, showcasing key gear in action.

Alongside the hands-on side, there's a programme of guest speaker seminars and brand talks from professional photographers, filmmakers and industry specialists, all designed to inspire, educate and help you take your photography or filmmaking further.

My session: No Studio, No Problem

You'll find me on the shopfloor throughout the day for "No Studio, No Problem: Classic Portraits with Minimal Kit." You don't need a studio, expensive lighting or a van full of gear to create classic, timeless portraits. You just need to know what you're doing with what you've got.

This is a practical session with no shortcuts and no assumptions about your budget or your space. I'll show you exactly how I build my signature classic portraits using minimal kit in a limited area, from choosing the right equipment and setting up the light, right through to working with a subject in front of the camera.

I'll cover the kit itself and why less is often more, how to set up and use light for a clean, timeless look, and the skill that gets overlooked far too often: relaxing your subject in front of the camera. Because the best lighting setup in the world won't save a portrait if the person in it looks uncomfortable. These are informal, ad-hoc sessions running between the seminar programmes, so come and find me, ask questions, and you might even walk away with a free portrait.

Booking and good to know

Entry to the in-store day is free. One thing worth knowing: general admission gets you into the store day, but to attend the ticketed guest speaker talks you need to book separately through the links on each event page. My shopfloor sessions are part of the free in-store day, so no separate ticket needed to catch those.

You'll find full details of the wider Summer Roadshow programme, including venues and what's on at each store, on the Wex Photo Video website at wexphotovideo.com/roadshow.

I'm genuinely looking forward to this one. Eleven dates, a lot of miles, and a lot of portraits.

Please do, come and say hello.

Flash Photography: Front Curtain Sync and Rear Curtain Sync Explained

When you shoot with flash at a slower shutter speed, the camera is really recording two things at once.

The first is ambient light, which is controlled mainly by your shutter speed. The second is the flash, which freezes or highlights your subject.

Curtain sync simply decides when the flash fires during that exposure. It is one of those settings most people never touch, but once you understand it, you have a lot more creative control.

What is front curtain sync?

Front curtain sync means the flash fires at the start of the exposure.

So the order is this. The flash fires, the shutter stays open, and any ambient blur records afterwards. This is the default setting on most cameras.

What does front curtain sync look like?

If your subject is moving, the flash freezes them at the very start, then any motion blur appears in front of them, ahead of the movement.

This can sometimes look a little odd, because the blur seems to be heading the wrong way.

Picture someone walking across the frame. The flash freezes them first, then their movement creates blur after that frozen moment. The result can make the blur look like it is leading the subject rather than trailing behind. Basically, the blur looks like it got up early and left before the subject did.

What is rear curtain sync?

Rear curtain sync means the flash fires at the end of the exposure.

So the order flips. The shutter opens, the ambient blur records, then the flash fires right at the end. This means the motion blur appears behind the subject, which usually feels far more natural.

What does rear curtain sync look like?

If someone is moving through the frame, the camera records the motion blur first, then the flash freezes them at the end of the movement.

This gives the sense that the subject is moving forward with the blur trailing behind. That is why rear curtain sync is so often used for more creative flash work.

The simplest way to remember it

Front curtain sync freezes the subject first. Rear curtain sync freezes the subject last. That is the whole difference in two sentences.

Why use front curtain sync?

Front curtain sync is useful when you want the flash to fire immediately and you are not too worried about the direction of motion blur.

It works well for:

  • general flash photography

  • portraits with little or no movement

  • event photography

  • situations where you just need reliable flash timing

  • faster shutter speeds where blur is not visible anyway

Most of the time, front curtain sync is perfectly fine.

Why use rear curtain sync?

Rear curtain sync comes into its own when you want movement to feel natural or creative.

It works well for:

  • dancers

  • musicians

  • runners

  • cyclists

  • cars

  • wedding dance floors

  • people walking through a scene

  • creative portraits with intentional blur

  • street photography at night

  • light trails

It gives the image more energy, because it shows the movement before freezing the final position.

Creative uses

Movement portraits

Use a slower shutter speed, ask your subject to move slightly, then let the flash freeze them at the end. This is great for musicians, athletes, dancers, and fashion or editorial portraits. You end up with a sharp subject surrounded by movement and atmosphere.

Dance floor shots

Use rear curtain sync with a slow shutter speed and a little camera movement. The ambient lights create streaks and colour, then the flash freezes the people at the end. Very useful for weddings and events.

Light trails

Photograph a cyclist, a runner, a car, or someone holding a light source. Rear curtain sync keeps the trail behind the subject rather than awkwardly in front.

Dragging the shutter

This is when you deliberately use a slower shutter speed to bring in more ambient light. Instead of shooting flash at 1/200 sec and letting the background go dark, you might shoot at 1/15 sec or 1/30 sec to let the room, the street lights, or the sunset show through. The flash freezes the subject while the slower shutter records the atmosphere.

Camera movement

You can twist, pan, zoom, or gently move the camera during the exposure. With rear curtain sync, the flash fires at the end, giving you a sharp subject after the creative blur. Done well, it looks dynamic. Done badly, it looks like the camera sneezed. Both are educational.

How to use it

Set your camera or flash system to rear curtain sync, sometimes labelled second curtain sync.

Then choose a slower shutter speed, such as:

  • 1/30 sec

  • 1/15 sec

  • 1/8 sec

  • 1 second or longer for more extreme effects

The slower the shutter speed, the more blur and ambient light you record. Keep your flash power controlled so the subject is still lit properly.

Things to watch out for

It needs movement. If nothing is moving, front and rear curtain sync will look almost identical.

Shutter speed matters. At faster shutter speeds you probably will not see much difference. The effect becomes obvious only when you slow things down.

Ambient light matters. No ambient light means no visible blur or trails. You need some available light in the scene for the movement to record.

Flash freezes, shutter blurs. The flash gives you the sharp subject. The shutter speed controls how much movement or background light appears.

Rear curtain sync can feel less predictable. Because the flash fires at the end of the exposure, the timing feels a little strange at first. For moving subjects, you may need a few attempts to land the perfect position.

Best starting settings

For a simple test, try this:

Mode: Manual Shutter speed: 1/15 sec Aperture: f/4 ISO: 400 Flash: TTL or low manual power Sync: Rear curtain sync Subject: Ask someone to walk across the frame or move their arms

Take one photo with front curtain sync, then one with rear curtain sync. The difference will be obvious.

Front vs rear curtain sync at a glance

Feature Front curtain sync Rear curtain sync Flash fires At the start At the end Motion blur appears Often in front of subject Usually behind subject Best for General flash use Creative movement Looks More standard More dynamic Useful with slow shutter speeds Yes, but can look odd Yes, often more natural Default on most cameras Yes No

The key teaching phrase

Front curtain sync freezes where the subject was. Rear curtain sync freezes where the subject ends up.

Or even simpler. Front curtain sync starts the story with flash. Rear curtain sync ends the story with flash.

TO summarISE

Rear curtain sync is usually the better choice when you want movement, blur, trails, and energy to look natural in a flash photograph.

Photographing a Lyme Regis Legend - Harry May

Tuesday morning I was out early to meet up with someone that can only be described as a Legend when it comes to Lyme Regis ... Harry May.

Just as with the Scallop Divers, for one reason or another, including Harry having knee replacement surgery, it had taken almost 2 years to get him in front of my camera, but it was so worth the wait.

What a super nice guy!

Honestly ... despite it being the first time we'd met and spoken in person, it felt like I'd known him for years. In fact, when Harry arrived, it was easily a good 20 minutes if not more that we chatted, before I started taking photographs. Sorry for keeping you waiting, Steve 😃

Keeping It Simple, Keeping It Classic

The brief for this one, set by me, for me, was simple: keep it classic.

It was a glorious sunny morning with just enough cloud cover to give beautifully soft natural light. To match that softness, I used my 4x3ft Westcott Softbox, positioned about one and a half arm's lengths from Harry.

I shot at f/4.0 to soften the background slightly. Rather than using High Speed Sync (HSS) to let me shoot at a wide aperture in bright light, I opted for a 4-stop Neutral Density filter instead. The light was consistent and I'd had everything dialled in well before Harry arrived, so there was no rush and no need for the extra flexibility HSS gives you; it's simply a different way of solving the same problem: too much ambient light for the aperture you want.

• Did you see my High Speed Sync versus Neutral Density Filters Infographic ? ( LINK )

My Westcott FJ800 strobe handled it perfectly, run in TTL with +1 stop of compensation added.

Natural Direction

If you've ever been to Lyme Regis, there's a good chance you've spotted Harry leaning on the railing further down by his Fishing Trips board. So, having him lean the same way where we were shooting felt completely natural to him. Direction was barely needed, just "lean yourself on there and get comfy."

That's really the whole trick with portraits like this: find the pose someone already does in real life, and let them do it.

The Stunt Double

Before Harry arrived, my mate Steve Healy stepped in as stunt double, so I could get the lighting and exposure dialled in properly. That meant when Harry turned up, we were ready to go straight away rather than running test shots on the actual subject.

Three Shoots, Five Days

I'm on a high right now. This was my third shoot for my "I am Lyme" project in the last five days, and the best part is word is starting to spread. More people are hearing about the project and wanting to be part of it.

About "I am Lyme"

"I am Lyme" is a community-focused portrait series centred on the coastal town of Lyme Regis. The idea is simple: capture and celebrate the local faces that give the town its character, from fishermen and restaurateurs to B&B hosts, cafe owners and more…