tutorial

Creating a Bird in Flight Sequence in Photoshop (Zero AI)

I’ve very recently started getting into wildlife photography, as something different to do when I’m not taking portraits, and over the past week or so I’ve been out as much as I can photographing birds at a local reservoir and wetlands.

From one of the first shoots I put together a composite of a black-headed gull flying across the water; it’s the same bird at seven stages of its flight, brought together into one image in Photoshop. Since sharing it I’ve been asked a few times how I made it, so this is how.

The kit, and why one frame was never going to do it

The gull was photographed on my Canon EOS R5 Mark II with the Canon EF 400mm f/2.8L IS III, which is so good; razor sharp and super fast. Zoom into any of the frames and the detail on the bird is unbelievable.

None of this could have been done in one shot. As the gull flew across the water I panned the camera to my right to follow it, keeping the bird in the middle of the frame the whole time, and you can see that in the water if you flick through the frames, because the ripples all run the way I was panning. Every frame has the gull sat bang in the centre, so the job in Photoshop is cutting each one out and spreading them across the picture.

Getting organised in Lightroom first

I picked out the seven frames I wanted and, before anything else, renamed them Gull 1 through to Gull 7. I highlighted all seven, right-clicked and chose Rename 7 Photos, then picked Custom Name and Sequence from the dropdown, gave it a name, set the starting number to 1 and clicked Apply.

It’s a small thing, but when you’re dipping in and out of Lightroom it means you can see straight away which frame you need next.

I didn’t do any editing in Lightroom at all; Gull 1 went straight over to Photoshop with File > Edit In > Edit in Photoshop.

The first gull

Gull 1 ends up on the far left of the composite, with the others running across to the right, so the bird needs moving out of the middle of the frame.

It works like this. Grab the Object Selection tool, click on the bird and Photoshop makes a selection of it. The reflection in the water needs to come along too, so hold Shift and drag a box over it to add it to the selection, and it picked that up really well.

Now expand the selection a touch with Select > Modify > Expand; 5 pixels is plenty. You’ll see the selection jump outwards when you click OK, and that’s what you want, because it means there won’t be a faint outline or a few stray bits left behind once the bird’s been moved and the original removed.

Command+J (Ctrl+J on Windows) then puts the bird and its reflection on a layer of their own.

Removing the original, without AI

The original bird on the background layer still needs to go. There are lots of ways to do it, but I wanted to do this one without AI, so I used good old Content-Aware Fill.

Hold Command and click the cutout layer’s thumbnail to load the selection back in, make sure the background layer is the active one, then go to Edit > Content-Aware Fill. The green overlay is the area Photoshop is sampling from, and if you want it to consider more of the water you can add to it with the plus brush; I gave it a bit more above the bird. Set the output to Current Layer, click OK and deselect.

The bird’s gone, and it’s done a really good job of it without any AI at all.

With the cutout layer selected, hold Shift and drag it over to the left. Shift keeps it on the same horizontal line, so the bird stays at exactly the same height above the water and looks as though it was always in that part of the picture.

The other six

These are quicker, because from each of them I only need the bird and not the background.

Gull 2 goes over to Photoshop, Object Selection tool on the bird, Shift and drag to add the reflection, expand by 5 pixels and Command+J. Drag that layer across into the composite with Shift held down and it drops in at the same height it was in the original frame, so all that’s left is sliding it into position. Close the frame without saving and on to the next one.

You can send all seven frames over to Photoshop in one go and have them open as tabs, but that feels a bit messy to me, so I did them one at a time.

Making room with Content-Aware Scale

With all seven gulls in, it was looking pretty cramped, so the picture needed to be wider.

Generative Expand would do that these days, but you get a lower resolution result, and it’s easy to forget there’s technology in Photoshop we’ve had for years that’ll do it at the original resolution. In this case that’s Content-Aware Scale.

Unlock the background layer first, then use the Crop tool to drag the canvas out wider and give the birds a bit more breathing space, with the fill option in the options bar set to transparent. The birds are all on their own layers and don’t get touched; it’s only the background layer, the water, that gets stretched.

With the background layer active, go to Edit > Content-Aware Scale, hold Option (Alt on Windows) and drag the middle handle on the left side outwards. Holding Option stretches the right side by the same amount, so both sides fill in equally.

Photoshop is stretching what’s already there as you drag, but not to the point where you’d really notice. Zoom into the ripples afterwards and they look perfect, and because there’s no generative fill involved, it’s still the original resolution of the image.

Spacing them evenly with guides

The last job is spacing the birds evenly across the width. You could do it by eye, but guides make it much easier.

Go to View > Guides > New Guide Layout, ignore the rows, set Columns to 8 and the gutter to 0. That gives you seven guides across the image plus the ones on the outer edges, so there’s one for each gull. Drag each bird onto its guide, then clear them with View > Guides > Clear Canvas Guides.

That’s it, and the seven gulls are now spread evenly across the water.

You could carry on from there and darken the water down so the birds stand out a bit more, but the composite itself is done, and none of it needed the latest AI features; Content-Aware Fill and Content-Aware Scale have been in Photoshop for years, and they’re more than capable.

Updated Reflection Removal, But is it BETTER?

On the 29th September Adobe released Lightroom 9.6 and Lightroom Classic 15.6, and one of the things in the update was a set of improvements to reflection removal. Adobe's wording talks about cleaner results on complex surfaces, with fewer smudges and ghosting artefacts when you're removing reflections from windows, glass and water, which sounds great, but I think it's fair to say my experience of it up until now has been a little bit hit and miss. When it works it works incredibly well, but there are pictures where you'd think it should do the job and it just doesn't.

So I wanted to see how the update copes, and then show you something else that's now in Lightroom which could be a workaround for the times it doesn't. I haven't tried it on water yet; I wanted to see how it got on with ordinary reflections in windows first.

Where it works

The first picture I tried is one where the window is the dominant part of the scene, with me clearly reflected in the glass. In the Remove section on the right-hand side you've got Reflections, so I ticked Apply, using Preview so I wasn't waiting around too long, and after a few seconds it had done a really good job. Drag the Amount slider all the way to the left and you can see the reflection, drag it all the way to the right and it's gone completely.

That's the version of this tool people get excited about, and rightly so.

Where it doesn't

The next picture is me standing outside a gallery photographing it, and again I'm very clearly visible in the window along with plenty of other things being reflected. Same steps, same few seconds' wait, and nothing really happened, which is odd, because the window is still the main part of the picture.

The third was outside my friend Nicola Catherine's fashion knitwear and art studio, with me reflected in the window again. This time it looked really good at first, until you start looking properly; around the picture frame and up towards the top you can still see the reflection, and with the Amount slider dragged across I could still make out my teeth, my beard and my glasses.

That's where the tool is right now, and I'd fully expect it to keep getting better. The question is what you do in the meantime when it won't play ball.

Prompt to Edit

I've previously done this in Photoshop with a selection and Generative Fill, but there's another new addition in Lightroom which I think works as a workaround for now. Down at the bottom of the right-hand panel there's a small icon for Prompt to Edit. My first thought when I saw it was that I didn't really want that kind of thing in Lightroom, but Lightroom has a lot of users with different wants and needs, and it'll suit plenty of them. It's early access at the moment, so this isn't the finished version.

It works the way prompting does in any generative AI tool. There are presets for things like fixing dust and scratches, colour restoration and black and white colourisation, plus effects such as adding dense fog or replacing the sky, and you can type your own prompt and pick earlier ones from a history list underneath. The important part is the note at the top saying the result is saved as a new DNG, because what it's actually doing is regenerating the entire image to make whatever change you've asked for.

Right now the only models on offer are Nano Banana 2 at 2K, which uses 20 credits, or Nano Banana 2 at 4K, which uses 30, and there's no preview, so you don't get to see whether it's going to work before the credits are spent. I'd really hope more models appear once it's out of early access, because there are others that are better at working on just part of an image while holding on to the original.

Trying it on three windows

The picture I used has three windows with some pretty severe reflections, and the big white patch in the right-hand one is my softbox from when I lit the portrait. I typed "remove the reflections from each of the three windows", hit Generate, and after a short wait a second file appeared next to the original Fuji raw file, with "-prompt" added to the file name.

The reflections were gone, but flicking between the two with the arrow keys the saturation had clearly gone up, and in the right-hand window, where you couldn't see anything at all through the softbox, it had simply made something up. For your own pictures that might be fine, but if you're trying to keep any integrity in the image I don't imagine a client would be too keen.

So I deleted that one and tried again, adding "do not change the colour, do not increase the contrast, keep the original contents exactly the same" to the prompt and choosing 4K this time. The windows came out really well, but the saturation was still up, and zooming in showed the bigger issue; even at 4K it's a much lower resolution than the original photograph, and a lot of the lettering had changed. The menu was nonsense and the Costa sign now said "burned", which isn't the best advert if you're selling coffee.

Bringing it into Photoshop

However, all is not lost, because you only need the generated file for the glass. I selected the original and the new DNG in Lightroom, holding Shift to get both, then went to File, Edit In, Open as Layers in Photoshop.

In the Layers panel the difference in size between the two thumbnails is obvious straight away, which is a very visual way of seeing how much resolution you lose. With the generated layer on top, I selected both layers and went to Edit, Auto-Align Layers, left it on Auto and clicked OK, and it lined the two up really well. A quick crop took care of the edges, along with a little bit of the softbox showing in the top right corner.

Then I held Option (Alt on Windows) and clicked the layer mask icon, which adds a black mask and hides the generated layer completely, and painted the windows back in with a white brush. I nudged the brush hardness up so it stayed tidy against the window frames, because a very soft brush spills over them.

This is where you get to choose what you keep. One sign had changed colour, so I left the original there. The wording at the top of the TripAdvisor sign had gone a bit odd, so I painted that back with black. The menu had turned into a strange made-up language, so I kept the original there too; there's still a touch of reflection on it, but it's not dominant. In the left-hand window a chalkboard had vanished while a hanging decoration had been kept, which is pretty clever, but it's artistic licence, and the right-hand window is completely invented. That's usable for your own work, but for a client I very much doubt they'd want new things appearing behind the glass.

Fixing the Costa sign

The Costa sign was a different problem, because masking couldn't sort it without the colour shifting, so the wording itself needed changing. I added a new blank layer, drew a selection around the word with the Rectangular Marquee tool and used Generative Fill from the contextual taskbar with Firefly Image 5, which is the one to pick here; it's designed to edit while preserving detail. I typed "change to served", and it swapped the word over in what looks like the same font, which is really useful.

The finished picture is the full resolution original everywhere except the glass, which comes from the regenerated file, and flicking between before and after it's not bad at all. Ideally you'd do all of this with Reflection Removal inside Lightroom, and I'm sure that's where it's heading, but as things stand in October 2026, with Prompt to Edit in early access and reflection removal still a bit hit and miss, it's another good option to have for the pictures the built-in tool can't manage yet.

I Let ChatGPT Edit My Photos in Lightroom

The photograph in the video above was edited from start to finish in Lightroom, and I didn't make a single one of the adjustments. ChatGPT did. It used my Lightroom, moved the sliders, made the masks and took the picture from a slightly underexposed raw file to a finished edit, in my style.

ChatGPT has been able to use your computer for a while now. You give it permission and it takes over the mouse and keyboard and works through a job the way you would, opening apps, clicking and typing, and you can see everything it does as it does it and stop it at any point. With the recent update to Astra it's taken a real step up, which got me wondering whether it could actually edit a photograph. I don't mean generate a new picture; I mean sit inside Lightroom and edit a raw file with the same tools I use, and learn to do it the way I would.

Teaching it my style

The first job was getting it to understand how I edit. In Lightroom I set up an album called My Seascape Style with 11 of my images in it. Some still have their adjustments visible, masks included, so it could see exactly what I'd done. Others have the edit baked in, because I'd sent them over to Photoshop for some heavy lifting and brought them back, so there's nothing in the panels to look at, only the finished picture.

I used GPT-6 Astra with the effort level set to high. Day to day I find medium is plenty, but for studying my edits I wanted it to do an extra good job, even though it takes longer.

Then I told it what I wanted, dictated rather than typed because it's quicker. Look at every image in the album, study the adjustments, the masking, the detail and the colour grading, and try to understand not only what I'd done but why. For the images with nothing visible in the panels, study the mood and the atmosphere and the tonality instead, and work out what I'd have done to get there.

As soon as I sent it, ChatGPT asked for permission to use Adobe Lightroom, and I allowed it for that conversation. From then on you can watch it working away on its own, opening images and panels and looking around.

Watching it work

What really interested me was how far it went. It dived into the masking and looked at how I'd masked the rocks in the foreground and the adjustments I'd used to bring them out, which is exactly the kind of fiddly detail I'd half expected it to skip.

It posts updates as it goes, and part way through it had noticed that I recover the highlights and open up the shadows, then bring the depth back with control over the black point and selective detail. It had even picked up that I use one film-style profile for the warmer, pastel pictures and a different one for the cooler surf shots.

The whole thing took 11 minutes and 30 seconds. At the end it said it had reviewed the adjustments across all 11 images, including 27 local masks, saved an image-by-image reference of my style, and, thankfully, left my images unchanged.

Handing it a raw file

For the edit itself I picked an unedited raw file from the Local tab in Lightroom, a seascape that was slightly underexposed, which felt like a fair test. I told it to edit the image in my style using everything available in Lightroom, including the masking, the colour grading and denoise, then sat back with my arms folded to prove I wasn't touching anything.

When it finished, it described what it had done as my pastel seascape treatment: pink and lavender grading, cool water, deep textured rocks and luminous foam. The edit included four separate masks, denoise, selective sharpening, a custom tone curve, subtle grain and a vignette, plus a horizon correction.

What it actually did

Going through the Edit panel, it had chosen a profile and made adjustments right through the Light section. In the curve it had done one of the things I love to do, which is lift the blacks so they aren't a deep zero black, and it did that on a point curve. It used the colour mixer, and in the colour grading it worked on the shadows and midtones as well as the blending and balance. It used denoise too, and it built all those masks.

Hand on heart, that's pretty much how I would have edited it. I wouldn't leave it exactly as it is, I'd go in and tweak a few things, but it got me about 90% of the way there in roughly 10 minutes.

Try it with your own photos

If you'd like to give this a go, the detailed prompt I used is free to download. Head over to the classroom in my free Photography Community on Skool and you'll find it under YouTube download files:

https://www.skool.com/photography-community/about

Where this leaves us

There's been a lot of resistance to letting AI edit our photographs, and for good reason. When it generates the picture for you the quality drops, at the moment anyway, and you can't go back in and adjust what it's done. This is very different; it's using my software to make the same manual adjustments I'd make to my own raw files, at full quality, and every one of them can still be changed.

It's not something I'd do myself, because editing is a big part of how I make a picture mine and I just love the process. However, if you're new to editing and don't know where to start, or you know what you want but not how to get there, this is a bit like having someone who's really good with Lightroom sit next to you and show you what they'd do. You can watch every move it makes and undo any of them, and I think there's real potential in that as a way of learning.

Who is Photoshop for now? 🤷‍♂️ (update 27.10.0)

Here's a question I've been carrying around for a while now, and I still haven't got a tidy answer for it …

Who is Photoshop for now?

For most of the years I've been using it, Photoshop has been the place I go to disappear. I'll open an image with a rough idea of where I want to take it, start working, and the next time I look up properly two hours have gone. That isn't just productivity, it's creative escapism, and I think that deep flow state is why so many of us fell in love with the application in the first place.

Lately though, opening Photoshop feels a bit different. It feels like it wants something from me. It wants me to write a text prompt, it wants me to keep an eye on my generative credit balance, and it seems remarkably keen to show me what it can do without me.

I want to be clear about where I'm coming from. I love Photoshop; it's what I do, it's what I built my career on, and I'm not going anywhere. But when you genuinely care about a tool you pay close attention to the direction it's pointing in, and looking at what's arrived in recent releases like version 27.10.0, I think it's worth having an honest conversation about where things are heading.

Two interfaces and a bit of an identity crisis

There are a few significant shifts in the interface in the newer updates.

The contextual taskbar now has a dedicated Prompt to Edit button, so instead of making a careful selection first, you can prompt changes right across an entire image using various AI models.

Then there's the AI Assisted Editor workspace, which you can enable from the menus. Switch to it and Photoshop strips away your layers, your familiar tools and your adjustments, and replaces the lot with a prompt driven layout that looks and behaves like Adobe Firefly sitting inside Photoshop.

There's also the Pro Editor label. The workspace you and I have used for decades, with its layer stacks, blend modes, masks and smart objects, is now officially labelled the Pro Editor to tell it apart from the AI Assisted mode. Photoshop never used to need a qualifier; it was just Photoshop.

I do understand the logic from Adobe's side. The full Photoshop interface is intimidating for beginners and a simplified prompt box lowers the barrier to entry, but turning the whole canvas into a prompt box disables the very foundation that makes Photoshop worth learning in the first place, which is non destructive layers, precise pixel control, and being able to unpick your creative decisions months down the line.

If someone purely wants to generate an image from text, they've already got dedicated web tools and mobile apps for that. What they don't need is desktop Photoshop with its core strengths stripped out.

Resolution and control

Beyond the workflow philosophy there are some practical hiccups when you lean on whole image generative edits.

Run a full prompt, asking the software to add weather effects say, and it generates an entirely new flattened layer. Even with the recent improvements to generation resolution, the output is often softer and lower in detail than your original camera file.

If you then try to mask through to recover the original sharpness on your subject's face, you run into problems fairly quickly. Perspective shifts, subtle facial alterations and mismatched lighting mean the generated background no longer lines up cleanly with the original capture, so you end up spending extra time fixing blend modes, manually aligning shifted anatomy and correcting colour mismatches, just to make the composite work.

The credit counter

There's another subtle shift that changes how the software feels to use, and that's the generative credit counter.

Adobe have made the right decision by being transparent and showing you exactly what a generation will cost before you press the button; hiding the cost would be far worse. But seeing that meter tick down does introduce a psychological hesitation.

You pause before generating. You wonder whether this variation is worth spending a credit on or whether you ought to save it, and if the result comes back slightly off, you've then got to decide whether a second roll of the dice is worth the cost.

In twenty years of editing I've never opened a Curves adjustment and wondered whether I could afford it. I've never dodged and burned a portrait with a bill running in the corner of the screen. Creativity thrives when you're free to experiment, fail and try again without an active meter running.

The quiet lane and the loud lane

I don't want any of this to sound like a complaint about modern features. In recent updates to Camera Raw, Adobe introduced a new Glow adjustment covering diffusion, bloom and halation. It doesn't need a prompt. It's practical, it's well engineered, and it's built directly for photographers and retouchers, which is Adobe at their absolute best.

Historically Photoshop has moved forward in two lanes at the same time. There's the loud lane, the flashy headline grabbing features that generate all the excitement, and there's the quiet lane, the foundational unglamorous refinements to core tools, performance, selections and menus that quietly save you ten minutes on every job for the next five years.

My concern isn't that generative AI exists in Photoshop. My concern is that the quiet lane slows down because all the engineering focus goes into the loud one. We need generative tools when they genuinely speed up complex retouching work, but we also need the core engine to keep advancing, and we shouldn't have to choose between modern AI assistance and the deep precise craft of manual image making.

I'd be interested to know where you've landed on it, whether the generative tools have changed the way you work, or whether you're staying firmly in the layer stack.

Iron Clothes in Photoshop in 30 Seconds

Almost every conversation I see about AI and photography is about generating things that were never in the frame in the first place, and that's never been the part that interests me. What I actually care about is getting time back. The small distractions that were out of my control on the day, the ones that used to cost me twenty minutes with the healing brush, can now be sorted cleanly in seconds with the texture still intact.

Wrinkled clothing and folded backdrops are the two that come up again and again. So here's how I deal with both.

The orange t shirt

First job on this one was a distracting logo on the shirt, and for that I go straight to the Remove Tool. The setting worth knowing about is Auto, which lets Photoshop work out for itself whether it needs standard content aware fill or whether it needs to reach for generative AI. On a simple cleanup like a small logo it'll usually just handle it locally, which means you're not burning generative processing on something that didn't need it.

With the logo gone, the creases were the bigger problem, and that's a three step job.

Make a loose selection around the whole shirt with the standard Lasso Tool. Nothing precious about it, loose is fine. Then open Generative Fill from the contextual taskbar and pick the Firefly Image 5 model, which in my experience is much better at editing what's already there and preserving fine detail than it is at inventing things you didn't ask for. Then type a clear prompt: "remove the creases from off the orange t shirt".

That's it.

What comes back has the harsh creases gone but the natural drape still there, along with the shadows and the weave of the fabric. It still looks like a t shirt someone was actually wearing, which is the whole point.

That slightly crispy edge, and the Quick Mask fix

The second example was a branded white t shirt, and that's a bit more involved because you want a proper selection rather than a loose lasso.

The Object Selection Tool is quick here, and using Select People and then Upper Clothes gets you there in a couple of clicks. The catch is that it can leave a hard, slightly crispy edge, and you tend to notice it most around the neckline where the shirt meets skin.

In Adobe Camera Raw and in Lightroom there are dedicated Feather and Edge sliders for AI masks, which sort this out instantly. Photoshop doesn't have those in the main workspace at the moment, so you need a workaround, and the one I use is Quick Mask.

Make your selection with the Object Selection Tool, then tap Q to drop into Quick Mask Mode. Go to Filter, then Blur, then Gaussian Blur, and put in something small; I'm usually somewhere between 1 and 1.2 pixels. Tap Q again to come out.

That tiny bit of blur softens the boundary between the mask and the skin so the transition reads as natural rather than cut out.

Being specific is the whole game

This is the bit I'd underline if I were underlining anything.

Generative Fill still needs a clear instruction even when you've made a precise selection. If you type "remove the creases" and nothing else, more often than not you'll get nothing back at all, because the model hasn't been given enough to go on.

Prompt it with "remove the creases from off the white t shirt" instead and it knows exactly what it's looking at and what you want doing. The folds go, the printed typography stays where it was, and the grain of the fabric survives.

It feels fussy the first couple of times. It stops feeling fussy the moment you see the difference.

The same thing works on backdrops

Studio backgrounds are the other one, and the workflow is identical.

Select your subject with Select and then Subject, then invert it with Select and then Inverse so it's the background you're working on rather than the person. Soften that boundary with the same Quick Mask and Gaussian Blur trick, which matters more here than anywhere else because of hair and shoulders.

Then in Generative Fill, be even more specific than you think you need to be. Something like: "remove the creases from off the grey background. do not change the look of the grey background. keep the texture etc."

Those extra instructions are doing real work. Without them you can end up with a background that's been quietly smoothed into a flat, artificial gradient, and you've lost the character of the thing entirely. With them, the fold lines from a portable backdrop like the Westcott Vintage Grey X-Drop Pro disappear and the texture stays exactly as it was.

None of this is compulsory

I'm not telling anyone they have to work this way. If you enjoy retouching every fold by hand, and plenty of people genuinely do, there's nothing wrong with that at all and the results will be lovely.

But if you'd rather spend less of your life sat in front of an editing screen and more of it on the actual photography, using these tools deliberately, on the boring problems rather than to invent things that were never there, is a big win.

Instantly Fix "Impossible" Glasses Reflections in Photoshop

Removing reflections from glasses has always been one of those jobs in Photoshop that's either felt impossible or just painfully tedious. In this tutorial, I'm showing you how the new Firefly Image Model 5 in the Photoshop Beta handles this specific problem in a way that I think you're going to find really useful.

I'm working with a portrait of Thomas Coulter, one of the veterans from my 39-45 Portraits Project, to walk you through exactly how it works.

The Challenge with Older Models

If you've tried using Generative Fill for this before, you'll know that older models like Firefly Image 1 could certainly remove a reflection, but they often introduced other problems at the same time. You'd sometimes end up with subtle changes to facial structure, eyebrows, or the shape of the glasses frames themselves. The reflection might be gone, but the portrait no longer looked quite right.

Why Firefly Image Model 5 is Worth Knowing About

Model 5 has been built with detail preservation as a priority. The idea is that it only changes what you've asked it to change, leaving everything else as close to the original as possible.

Worth knowing: this is a premium model, so it uses 10 generative credits rather than one. It also only produces a single variation, but given the quality of the result, that's rarely a problem.

How to Do It, Step by Step

  1. Open Photoshop Beta - You'll need the Beta version to access the latest Firefly models. [00:56]

  2. Make your selection - Use the Selection Brush Tool to paint over the reflections on the lenses. You don't need to be overly precise; going slightly over the frames is fine. [01:25]

  3. Open Generative Fill - Click Generative Fill in the Contextual Taskbar. If you can't see it, go to Window > Contextual Taskbar. [01:49]

  4. Choose the right model - This is the key step. In the Taskbar settings, look under Adobe Models and select Firefly Image Model 5 (Preview). [06:16]

  5. Enter your prompt - Something simple like "remove the reflection from the glasses" is all you need. [05:32]

  6. Generate - Hit Generate and give it around 10 to 12 seconds. [06:21]

The Results

What I find genuinely impressive here is that once the reflection is gone, everything else stays exactly as it was. The eyebrow hairs, the skin texture, the precise shape of the frames - all identical to the original file.

Now, Camera Raw and Lightroom do have reflection removal tools built in, and they're well worth trying, particularly on larger reflections. But for detailed areas like eyewear, where precision really matters, this approach in Photoshop gives you a level of control and accuracy that's hard to beat. If you've got portraits sitting in your archive that you've written off as too difficult, this is a good reason to dig them back out.

Fix IMPOSSIBLE Backgrounds Instantly ( Lightroom + Photoshop )

Recently, Steven Gotz, a member of the Photography Community on SKOOL ( LINK ), sent over a brilliant RAW file of a condor. Stunning subject, great light, one problem: a massive fence running right through the background.

Rather than leave it on the shelf, I figured it was the perfect excuse to put the latest updates in Lightroom and Photoshop Beta through their paces. What would have taken ages with the Clone Stamp tool a couple of years ago can now be sorted in seconds. Here's exactly how I did it, using two different workflows.

Workflow 1: Photoshop Beta with Firefly Image 5

This is the quickest route right now, and the results are genuinely impressive.

The key is using the new Firefly Image 5 (Preview) model inside Photoshop Beta. It's been built specifically for editing while preserving detail, which matters a lot when you're dealing with complex textures like feathers and rocky backgrounds.

  1. From Lightroom to Photoshop Beta. Right-click the image in Lightroom and choose Edit In > Adobe Photoshop Beta.

  2. Select All. Once you're in Photoshop, go to Select > All. This gives the AI the full context of the frame before you do anything.

  3. Switch to Firefly Image 5. Click Generative Fill in the contextual taskbar. Here's the bit that matters: don't use the standard model. Switch it to Firefly Image 5 (Preview) from the dropdown.

  4. The prompt. This model needs a prompt to work, unlike some of the others. I kept it simple: "remove the fence from this picture."

  5. Refine the detail. The AI did a great job on the background, but because Firefly Image 5 currently outputs at 2K, the fine detail around the bird's eye and feathers was slightly softer than the original RAW. The fix is straightforward: use the Object Selection Tool to select the bird and the rock, then fill that area on the layer mask with black. That reveals the sharp original bird while keeping the AI-cleared background intact.

Workflow 2: Lightroom to Firefly Web

Not on the Photoshop Beta? No problem. You can get to the same place via Lightroom's sharing feature.

  1. Share to Firefly. In Lightroom, hit the Share button (top right) and select Firefly: Edit an image. This opens your browser and drops the photo straight into the Adobe Firefly web interface.

  2. Settings and generate. Select Firefly Image 5, bump the resolution to 2K, use the same prompt ("remove the fence from this picture"), and hit generate.

  3. Back to Photoshop. Download the cleaned image, go back to Lightroom, and open the original file in the regular version of Photoshop.

  4. Stack and align. Use File > Place Embedded to bring the Firefly-cleaned version in on top of your original. Rasterise the top layer, select both layers, then go to Edit > Auto-Align Layers to make sure everything lines up perfectly.

  5. The masking trick. Same principle as Workflow 1: use the Object Selection Tool to select the bird and the rock, then hold Option (Mac) or Alt (Windows) and click the mask icon. This hides the AI version of the bird and brings back the sharp, high-detail original underneath.

Why the masking step matters

This is the part I think is really important. It's not about letting AI take over the whole image. It's about using it to fix a specific problem, in this case the background, while keeping the actual subject exactly as it was captured in the RAW file. The integrity of the original is what you're protecting.

Have a look through your archives. Chances are there are shots you wrote off because of something in the background. It might be worth giving them another look.

My Upgraded Realistic Photoshop Lighting Effect + Dust

This is one of those techniques I absolutely love. Adding a lighting effect to a portrait can completely change the mood of an image, and it really doesn't take long once you know the steps. What I want to share here is an upgraded version of what I used to call the "world's simplest lighting effect," but this time with realistic floating dust and a bit of atmospheric depth thrown in.

The Secret to Realism: Highlights

Before you even open Photoshop, there's one thing you really need to look for in your original photo, and that's existing highlights. For a lighting effect to look convincing, your subject needs to already have highlights on the side where you're going to place the light source. If you're adding light coming down from the top left, for example, there need to be highlights there already. Without them, the effect just never looks right no matter how much you tweak it.

Step 1: Creating the Light Source

A common mistake I see is people grabbing a massive brush and clicking once. The trouble is that with a huge soft brush, the feathered edges often get clipped by the edge of the canvas, leaving a harsh, ugly line.

Here's a better approach. Create a new blank layer, then select a standard round soft brush from the toolbar with the hardness set to 0%. Set your foreground colour to white and click once in the middle of your image with a relatively small brush. Now go to Edit > Free Transform (Cmd/Ctrl + T), hold down Shift and Option on Mac or Alt on Windows, and drag a corner handle to scale that brush stroke up proportionally until it's nice and large. Then grab the Move tool and reposition the light into the corner so that only the soft, feathered edge spills into the frame.

Step 2: Adding the Atmospheric Dust

This is where you take the effect to the next level. Those tiny bits of dust and debris that become visible when caught in a beam of light make all the difference. I tend to use a texture that looks a bit like a photograph of rain at night, shot looking upwards and slightly out of focus.

To apply a dust overlay, place the image over your work and use Free Transform to scale it so it fills the whole image. If the layer is a Smart Object, right click it and choose Rasterize Layer. Then go to Image > Adjustments > Desaturate so the dust doesn't introduce any unwanted colour. Change the Blend Mode to Screen, which knocks out the black background and leaves only the bright dust particles. Finally, add a Layer Mask to the dust layer. Grab a soft brush with a black foreground colour and paint away the dust where you don't want it. Keep it concentrated near the light source and off the main parts of your subject.

Step 3: Adding Movement

Static dust can look a bit "stuck on," so adding a touch of motion blur makes a huge difference. Go to Filter > Blur > Motion Blur and adjust the angle so the blur follows the direction of the light beam, usually from top left down to bottom right. Keep the distance quite small. You just want a subtle sense of movement, as if the particles are caught in a gentle drift.

How to Create Your Own Dust Textures

If you haven't got a dust overlay to hand, you can actually use AI to generate one. Using a tool like Adobe Firefly or Google Gemini, try a prompt along the lines of "dark atmospheric bokeh background with falling rain or snow particles." I find that asking for a 4x3 aspect ratio works well for most portraits.

I hope you find this upgraded technique useful for your own retouching. It's a quick way to add a lot of drama and production value to your images without needing any kind of complex setup.

Reality vs Photoshop - Is Faking It Cheating? 🤷‍♂️

Car photography always looks that little bit more dramatic when there's a wet road reflection underneath the vehicle. But what do you do when the road is bone dry? In this guide, I'll walk you through two ways to fake a puddle reflection in Photoshop -- one traditional, one powered by AI -- and then I'll leave you with a question worth thinking about.

Method One: The Manual Approach

Step 1: Select the Car

Start by grabbing the Object Selection tool from the toolbar. In the options bar at the top of the screen, make sure the mode is set to Cloud for the best possible result, then click Select Subject. Photoshop will do a surprisingly good job of selecting the car in just a moment or two.

Step 2: Copy the Car onto Its Own Layer

With your selection active, press Command + J (Mac) or Control + J (Windows) to copy the car up onto a new layer. If you toggle every other layer off, you should see just the isolated car sitting cleanly on a transparent background.

Step 3: Flip It Upside Down

Go to Edit > Transform > Flip Vertical. This flips the car layer to create the basis of your reflection. Now grab the Move tool, hold down Shift (to keep movement perfectly vertical) and drag the flipped car downwards until the tyres of both the original and the reflection are just touching.

If things look slightly off-angle, go to Edit > Free Transform, move your cursor just outside the bounding box until you see the rotation cursor, and give it a gentle nudge until it lines up properly.

Step 4: Add a Black Layer Mask

Rename this layer "Reflection" to keep things tidy. Then, holding down Option (Mac) or Alt (Windows), click the Layer Mask icon at the bottom of the Layers panel. This adds a black mask that hides the layer entirely -- which is exactly what you want for now.

Step 5: Draw the Puddle Shape

Select the Lasso tool and make sure you click directly on the layer mask thumbnail (you should see a white border appear around it, confirming it's active). Now draw a rough, freehand puddle shape beneath the car's tyres -- it doesn't need to be perfect, natural-looking and irregular is actually better here.

Step 6: Fill with White to Reveal the Reflection

Go to Edit > Fill, set the contents to White, and click OK. The reflection will now appear only within the puddle shape you drew.

Step 7: Soften the Edges

Zoom in and you'll notice the puddle edge looks very sharp and unnatural. To fix that, go to Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur and apply just a small amount -- around 3 pixels is usually enough. This softens the boundary and helps the reflection blend into the ground convincingly.

Finally, you can reduce the opacity of the Reflection layer slightly to make the whole thing look a little more subtle and true to life.

Method Two: Using Adobe Firefly's Generative Fill

If you want a quicker and arguably more realistic result, Photoshop's AI tools can do a remarkable job here.

Step 1: Load the Puddle Selection

Hold Command (Mac) or Control (Windows) and click directly on the layer mask from your first reflection layer. This loads the puddle shape back as an active selection, saving you from having to draw it again.

Step 2: Select the Background Layer

Click on the main image layer, so that Generative Fill works on the background rather than the reflection layer.

Step 3: Run Generative Fill

In the contextual taskbar, click Generative Fill and type a prompt along the lines of: a reflection of car in puddle of water. For the AI model, select Firefly (specifically the Firefly Built and Expand model released in January 2026). If you're on a Creative Cloud Pro account, this won't cost you any credits -- whereas models like Flux or Nano Banana can use anywhere between 20 and 30 credits per generation.

Click Generate.

Step 4: Choose Your Favourite Variation

Firefly will produce three variations for you to compare. Have a look through them and pick the one that looks most convincing. You'll likely notice that the AI does something quite clever: it reflects the sky in the puddle on the far side of the car, just as real water would. Achieving that manually in Photoshop would take considerably more time and effort.

Which Method Should You Use?

For a quick, dirty result, the manual method works well and gives you full control. But for something that genuinely looks like a photograph taken on a wet road, the AI approach is hard to argue with -- particularly because of how naturally it handles the environmental reflections in the water.

A Question Worth Thinking About

Here's something to consider. When photographing that car, there were really two options: bring bottles of water to pour around the car and create a real puddle on the dry road, or add the reflection later in post-production, either manually or with AI.

Both approaches result in a reflection that wasn't originally there. The only difference is when in the process you add it.

So what do you think -- is there a meaningful ethical difference between physically creating something on location and digitally adding it afterwards? When it comes to reflections specifically, does it matter?

Let me know your thoughts in the comments below.

How Many Generative Fill Credits do you have left? 🤷‍♂️

When I publish a new video on my YouTube Channel, one of the comments I often see is ...

"We should be able to see how many credits we have left when we use the AI in Photoshop"

So, this week I've recorded a short video showing exactly how you can ✅

Hope it's useful
Cheers
Glyn