tutorial

Editing a Photo in Lightroom + Photoshop ... on an iPad

Not too long ago, I never would have considered editing my photos on an iPad. It always felt like something I should save for my desktop. But things have changed. Both Lightroom and Photoshop on the iPad have improved massively, and these days I often use them when traveling. More and more, this mobile workflow is becoming a real option for photographers.

In this walkthrough, I’ll show you how I edited an image completely on the iPad, starting in Lightroom, jumping over to Photoshop when needed, and then finishing off with a print.

Starting in Lightroom on the iPad

The photo I worked on was taken with my iPhone. The first job was the obvious one: straightening the image. In Lightroom, I headed to the Geometry panel and switched on the Upright option, which immediately fixed the horizon.

Next, I dealt with a distraction in the bottom left corner. Using the Remove Tool with Generative AI switched on, I brushed over the wall that had crept into the frame. Lightroom offered three variations, and the second one was perfect.

With those fixes made, I converted the photo to black and white using one of my own synced presets. A quick tweak of the Amount slider gave me just the right level of contrast.

Masking and Sky Adjustments

The sky needed attention, so I created a Select Sky mask. As usual, the AI selection bled slightly into the hills, so I used a Subtract mask to tidy things up. It wasn’t perfect, but it was good enough to move forward.

From there, I added some Dehaze and Clarity to bring detail back into the clouds. A bit of sharpening pushed the image further, but that also revealed halos around a distant lamppost. At that point, I knew it was time to send the photo into Photoshop.

Fixing Halos in Photoshop on the iPad

Jumping into Photoshop on the iPad takes a little getting used to, but once you know where things are, it feels very familiar.

To remove the halos, I used the Clone Stamp Tool on a blank layer set to Darken blend mode. This technique is brilliant because it only darkens areas brighter than the sample point. With a bit of careful cloning, the halos disappeared quickly.

I then added a subtle “glow” effect often used on landscapes. By duplicating the layer, applying a Gaussian Blur, and changing the blend mode to Soft Light at low opacity, the image gained a soft, atmospheric look.

Back to Lightroom and Printing

With the edits complete, I sent the image back to Lightroom. From there it synced seamlessly across to my desktop, but the important point is that all of the editing was done entirely on the iPad.

Before printing, I checked the histogram and made some final tweaks. Then it was straight to print on a textured matte fine art paper. Once the ink settled, the result looked fantastic — no halos in sight.

Final Thoughts

I’m not suggesting you should abandon your desktop for editing. Far from it. But the iPad has become a powerful option when you’re traveling, sitting in a café, or simply want to work away from your desk.

This workflow shows what’s possible: you can straighten, retouch, convert to black and white, make sky adjustments, refine details in Photoshop, and even prepare a final print — all from the iPad. And of course, everything syncs back to your desktop for finishing touches if needed.

Exciting times indeed.

AI Just Changed How We ENHANCE EYES in PHOTOSHOP 💥

Two Ways to Add Detail to Dark Eyes in Photoshop

If you’ve ever edited a portrait where the eyes are so dark there’s no detail to recover, you’ll know how tricky it can be. Brightening them often makes things look worse, leaving the subject with flat, lifeless eyes.

In the video above, I walk you through two powerful techniques that solve this problem:

  • A reliable method using Photoshop’s traditional tools

  • A newer approach that uses AI to generate realistic iris detail

Here’s a quick overview of what you’ll see in the tutorial.

The Traditional Photoshop Method

This approach has been in my toolkit for years. It doesn’t try to recover what isn’t there. Instead it creates the impression of natural iris texture.

By adding grain, applying a subtle radial blur, and carefully masking the effect, you can fake detail that looks convincing. A touch of colour adjustment finishes the look, leaving you with eyes that feel alive instead of flat.

It’s a manual process but it gives you full control, and the result is surprisingly realistic.

The AI-Powered Method

Photoshop’s Generative Fill takes things in a different direction. With a simple selection around the iris and a prompt like “brown iris identification pattern”, Photoshop can generate natural-looking iris textures, the kind of fine patterns you’d expect to see in a close-up eye photo.

Once the AI has created the base texture, you can enhance it further using Camera Raw:

  • brighten the iris

  • increase contrast, clarity, and texture

  • even add a little extra saturation

Add a subtle catchlight and the transformation is incredible. The eyes go from lifeless to full of depth and realism in seconds.

Why These Techniques Matter

Eyes are the focal point of most portraits. If they’re dark and featureless, the whole image suffers.

These two techniques, one traditional and one modern, give you reliable options to fix the problem. Whether you want the hands-on control of Photoshop’s tools or the speed and realism of AI, you’ll be able to bring that essential spark back into the eyes.

How I Calibrate My BenQ SW272U Display for Photography and Everyday Use

One of the questions I get asked most often is how to correctly calibrate a display for photo editing and printing. Getting a reliable screen-to-print match can save you a huge amount of time, paper, and frustration.

In this article, I’ll walk you through the calibration process I use on my BenQ SW272U display. I’ll share the exact settings I rely on for editing and printing, as well as a second calibration I use for everyday tasks like browsing the internet, emails, and watching videos.

The good news is that while I use BenQ’s Palette Master Ultimate software, the same principles apply no matter what brand or software you use.

Why Two Calibrations?

Your requirements are very different when you are editing images compared to when you are simply watching videos or scrolling through emails.

  • Photo and Print Calibration – designed for accuracy and consistency. A lower brightness, neutral white point, and subtle black levels that preserve shadow detail.

  • Everyday Use Calibration – designed for a punchier, brighter look. Strong contrast and deep blacks make general computing and video viewing more enjoyable.

With a hardware calibrated display, it is easy to switch between these profiles at the push of a button.

Tools I Use

  • BenQ SW272U Display (hardware calibration capable)

  • Calibrite Display Pro HL (connected via USB-C or USB adapter)

  • Palette Master Ultimate Software (BenQ’s calibration tool)

Calibration for Photo Editing and Printing

Step 1 – Connect and Configure

I plug my calibration device into the USB port on the monitor. On BenQ displays, make sure the USB setting is at 60 Hz in the on-screen menu, otherwise the device may not be recognised.

Step 2 – Start Palette Master Ultimate

Open the software, select your display, and choose the calibration device. Then go into Color Calibration and click Start.

Step 3 – Create a Custom Target

The default presets are not suitable for serious photography. They tend to be too bright, too cool, and overly contrasty. Instead, I set up my own target:

  • Luminance: 60 cd/m² (much lower than the default 120 cd/m², but it gives me the most accurate screen-to-print match in my workspace).

  • White Point: 6000K (to match the 6000K LED lighting in my studio).

  • Gamut: Adobe RGB.

  • Gamma: 2.2 (with Enhanced Gamma Calibration enabled for better black and white printing).

  • Black Point: 0.5 cd/m² (slightly lifted from pure black so shadow detail is visible).

I save this as a custom preset called Photo & Print and assign it to Calibration 1 on the monitor.

Step 4 – Run the Calibration

Place the sensor on the screen, tilt the display back slightly, and let the software run. The process takes about 7 minutes.

Step 5 – Check Results

The software generates a report showing how closely the calibration matched the targets. For example, my most recent run achieved:

  • Luminance: 58 (target 60)

  • White Point: 6040K (target 6000K)

  • Black Point: 0.51 (target 0.5)

These are excellent results. The key metric is Delta E, which measures accuracy. A value below 4 is considered good, below 2 is excellent. My calibration achieved an average of 0.53 with a maximum of 1.28.

This means my display is performing very accurately, giving me confidence in my editing and printing.

Calibration for Everyday Use

When I am not editing or printing, I want a brighter, more contrasty display for daily computer use. Instead of creating a custom target, I simply use the built-in Photography preset in Palette Master Ultimate, but assign it to Calibration 2.

This gives me:

  • Bright luminance for comfortable viewing

  • White Point at D65 (6500K), which is the standard for TVs, tablets, and smartphones

  • Absolute black point for deep contrast

The calibration process is the same: place the sensor, let the software measure, and save the profile.

Final Thoughts

By creating two calibrations and assigning them to different preset buttons, I can switch between Photo & Print and Everyday Use in seconds.

For editing and printing, I get a display that shows me accurate colors, controlled brightness, and detail in the darkest areas. For browsing, video, and general use, I enjoy a bright, punchy image that looks fantastic.

If you own a hardware calibrated display like the BenQ SW272U, I highly recommend setting up both profiles. It makes your editing workflow more accurate and your day-to-day computing more enjoyable.

HOW I Edit THIS Portrait in 2025 – Full Lightroom Workflow (No Photoshop!)

In this video I show how I now retouch a stylised portrait in Lightroom, that up until recently was only possible using Photoshop by making BIG use of Lightroom Masks …

*Newsletter Subscribers can download the same file I use in this tutorial to follow along step by step.

🎥 I Recorded 5 Lightroom Tutorials for Adobe

I'm excited to finally share some news I've been keeping under wraps: I recently had the opportunity to create five tutorial videos for Adobe, now featured on the Adobe Learn site … learn.adobe.com

These videos are designed with beginner and intermediate users in mind, walking through some of the most useful and practical workflows in Lightroom and Lightroom on the Web.

Whether you're just starting out or want to brush up on your skills, these tutorials are built to help you feel more confident with your editing and photo management.

Here's a quick look at the topics I covered:

✨ 1. Edit your Lightroom Photos in Photoshop

Start your edits in Lightroom and then send an image to Photoshop for additional creative possibilities.

🌐 2. Get to Know Lightroom on the Web

Access all your Lightroom photos in a web browser and any edits you make will sync across the Lightroom ecosystem.

🛠 3. Improve Photos with Basic Edits in Lightroom on the Web

Start with an auto adjustment and fine tune your edits with changes to the brightness, contrast, and color in a photo.

🎨 4. Enhance Photos with Presets in Lightroom on the Web

Take advantage of presets to jumpstart your image editing or explore new creative styles.

📁 5. Organize and Share Your Photos Using Lightroom on the Web

Use albums and folders to organize your photos and create a link to share an album as an online web gallery.

How to LEARN LIGHTROOM by Copying ... WITH Permission❗️

Available for ALL Lightroom users (Lightroom, Classic, Mobile and Web) is the Lightroom Community - a FREE Space where users share their edits from Start to Finish showing ALL of the sliders and settings used to create the final look. Also download Presets for FREE. The Lightroom Community is a GREAT resource to learn Lightroom.

3945 WW2 Veterans Portraits Project shown during the BBC's VE80 Concert

So incredibly proud and honoured that portraits from the 3945 Portraits Project were shown, projected on stage during the BBC’s VE80 Celebration Concert at Horse Guards Parade in London, infront of the King, Veterans, Veteran’s Families and the Nation

The portraits appeared during a rendition of "You'll never walk alone" sung by Sir Willard White. You can watch it here: https://glyndewis.com/3945portraits