Cinematic Portrait using Constant LED Light

Last weekend I was back with friends Ian Munro and Anthony Crothers in South Wales filming more content for the update to my TIMELESS Photography and Retouching Course, but in addition to this managed to grab some extra portraits too.

The vintage clothing Anthony was wearing was for the TIMELESS Update and was provided by a great ccompany called Marigold Costumes who provide clothing and props to the TV and Movie Industry and whilst he was there collecting it, also picked up a ‘Grandad Shirt’ and a set of braces.

The set up above was what I was using for the TIMELESS Update and that consisted of …

• Westcott X-Drop Pro Background Support System

• Westcott 8’ x 8’ X-Drop Vintage Grey by Glyn Dewis (Material)

• L60-B 60W Bi Colour LED

• Westcott Rapid Box Switch 4’ x 3’ Softbox

• Westcott Silver Reflector

The constant light I am absolutely loving! So much so infact I’ve now added a 2nd light to my kit with a 3rd on the way to give me more options for a new portrait series I’m going to be working on.

The portrait above is one that I took of anthony in-between filming segments for Timeless, and for this the set up was pretty much the same other than one addition.

Here’s what the ‘Out of Camera’ shot looks like when just using the L60-B LED and Softbox coming in from camera right …

At the time of this photo shoot I didn’t have a 2nd L60-B so instead I used the modelling light from my Westcott FJ200 strobe, and this worked a treat when fitted with the included reflector and honeycomb grid.

This was aimed behind Anthony from camera left so that just the soft outer portion of the light brushed past the side of his head.

Aiming the light past Anthony so that only the outer portion of the light hit him, meant the light will be soft unlike the portion of light nearer the centre. Also, doing this meant the softness of the light from the 4’ x 3’ softbox and the FJ200 matched.

A silver reflector was also positioned camera left just out of shot to bounce a bit of light onto Anthony’s shoulder and upper back nearest the camera because without it, there was very little detail.

As for the light you can see coming into the portrait from the top left, this was added very simply in Photoshop using a soft white brush and this I did so that the highlight on the side of Anthony’s head (camera left) made sense … if you know what I mean.

Below is a lighting diagram to give you an idea how the set up looked …

My favourite image from this quick portrait shoot is defintely the one above, but I did also grab this one with a wider field of view and slightly different pose and feel due to the chair having been turned around …

Using the exact same set up I also took a portrait of Ian, but with him standing instead of sitting …

I’m so looking forward to pushing on with a new portrait series using the L60-B LEDs ; there’s lots more to come so I’ll make sure to share what I get up to and grab plenty of Behind the Scenes.

I hope this breakdown is in some way useful and if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to drop them in the comment section and I’ll make sure to reply.

Cheers,
Glyn

• Note
As part of the retouching on these portraits I made use of my Dark & Moody Lightroom / Camera Raw preset at 20% strength, and this you can download for FREE when you subscribe to my twice-monthly newsletter

Colour Grading Course Update

Just to let you know in case you have my Colour Grading Course, that today I have added an update, an extra lesson into the course curriculum.

The addition includes Point Colour which was an update in both Lightroom and Camera Raw back in October 2023.

It’s such an incredibly useful feature that gives us amazing control to manipulate colours in our images, so in the videolesson I cover what it is and show exactly how to use it with download files to follow along with included as well.

If you have enrolled in the courlse already, as you have life time updates you’ll see it in the EXTRAS section.

Regards,
Glyn

---

Capturing STUNNING NATURAL WORLD PHOTOGRAPHS in your BACK YARD | Tim Oliver

Watch the recording of this LIVE Broadcast as I chat with Photographer Tim Oliver and discover his tips and techniques for capturing stunning wildlife photographs in particular of birds but also the natural world. PLUS the Gear / Kit he uses, uncovering how he approaches retouching, printing and selling his work.

links mentioned in the video

Tim Oliver’s Website: oliverimages.com

Tim Oliver on Instagram: @oliverimagesaz

Discount Code: Use code GLYN50 on Tim’s Website for 50% OFF Prints and Gift Shop Items

Want / Need a BIGGER Display to use with your Apple MacBook ?

So this morning I was contacted by someone from my Newsletter Subscriber list asking about the BenQ Discount I’m able to give details about for their SW and PD range of displays, but also asking a bit of advice on their choice of display.

In short, they use a MacBook Pro as their main computer but the current display (not BenQ) that they plug their MacBook into, after a good few years of reliable service has developed a fault that by all accounts to get fixed would cost more than a replacement, so … a replacement it is.

SW or PD ?

Initially they were looking at getting the BenQ SW272Q which basically has the same spec as the display I have, the SW272U other than it’s a 2K display rather than 4K, however after a bit of digging about to discover exactly what they do, I suggested they consider a Display from BenQ’s PD Range.

As for ‘what they do’ it was mainly editing their photographs but not doing any home printing; if they did print any images they used a lab. They also did a little bit of video editing for social media content and the rest was general day to day computer use stuff.

The reason I recommended they take a look at the PD range of displays from BenQ was first and foremost because their main computer is their MacBook Pro.

Mac Ready

The PD range of displays are Mac Ready, meaning when you connect the MacBook and turn on M-Book mode you get identical colour and brightness, basically meaning no difference between the MacBook screen and the BenQ PD display.

HASSLE FREE Connection

Using just one cable, Thunderbolt 3, you connect the MacBook to the display and this cable is also used for audio, video and data.

ERGONOMIC STAND INCLUDED

The PD displays come with an ergonomic stand that as well as having that Mac metal kind of look, is also able to tilt, rotate and is height adjustable.

2 DISPLAYS IN 1

I have the PD 3420Q as a 2nd display, and because of the ultra wide screen format being 3440 x 1440, it’s like having 2 Displays in 1.

Unless I have Premiere Pro open full screen on my PD display, I’ll often have the Chrome Browser AND my MacMail open together side by side which makes day to day working at my computer way more efficient.

There’s lots more to the PD displays but I just thought it beneficial to share the main reasons I recommended the PD over the SW range of displays, and also to give you something to think about if you were consiodering a new display … especially if you’re a Mac user.

PRICE DISCOUNT

Anyway, if you are looking to get a new display now or in the near future, drop me a message and I’ll give you a link to a page where I have details that explain how you can get a discount on Benq displays in the SW and PD range.

There’s a reason I won’t just post that openly here and when you go to the page I explain why that is 😉

Also, here’s a link to my GEAR page where you can see my desktop set up and the displays I use.

PHOTOSHOP Zoom GONE CRAZY ??? TRY THIS QUICK FIX

Sometimes, just sometimes when we get an update to Photoshop you MIGHT notice a few things behave little different; one of those things might be the zooming in and zooming out.

On that note, I recently received this email …

So this is the fix …

LIGHT | CAMERA | CAPTURE | The Art of Portrait Photography | Ross McKelvey

Watch the recordong of this LIVE Broadcast as I chat with Portrait Photographer Ross McKelvey about his process for capturing stunning portraits and motion covering Lighting Set Ups and Post Processing. Plus Camera Clubs, Printing, Presenting your Work and Photography Competitions …

links mentioned in the video …

Ross McKelvey website: rossmckelvey.co.uk

Ross McKelvey YouTube Channel: youtube.com/@rossmckelvey

Ross McKelvey on Instagram: instagram.com/rossmckelvey

Ross McKelvey on Facebook: facebook.com/ross.mckelvey

Westcott L60-B Bi Colour LED: LINK

My 5 Tips Videos featured in Photography Masterclass Magazine

BIG thanks to Photography Masterclass Magazine for featuring an article about one of my most popular videos with over ½ Million views ... "5 Tips to Instantly Improve your Portraits"

If you've not seen the video, here it is …

Constant LED Light Portraits with Sony and iPhone

The more I use the LED Constant Light for Portraits, the more I fall in love with it.

I know I said it before in an earlier post but when you use it, the whole WYSIWYG (What You See Is What You Get) not only makes setting up so much easier and quicker but also every time I use it, the people I photograph say how much more relaxing it is not having a flash go off in their face.

Just over a week ago I was recording some content for the iPhone Photography Conference and thought it would be an interesting comparison just to see how close I could get a photograph I took with my main camera, my Sony A7RIV Mirrorless and my iPhone 15 Pro Max.

Of course I went into this knowing that the iPhone image wouldn’t equal or surpass the quality of my Sony, but just thought it would be interesting to see how far the quality has moved on and do this with a lit Portrait using the constant light … the Westcott L60-B Bi-Colour LED.

THE SET UP

For the lighting. I had originally planned to use just one light, the L60-B, however I couldn’t resist the warm light emitting from the heater that Ian had turned on in the studio. I loved the way it cast a warm glow onto the wood panelling so this was carefully raised off the ground and then became the main light and the L60-B was positioned on the opposite side of Ian further forward and higher up.

The L60-B was given a warmer temperature using the iPhone app which works incredibly well.

As soon as I opened the app it connected to the light and I was able to dial in the power settings, change the temperature and I could even make it perform lighting special effects like lightning, TV and a faulty bulb … but these are obviously for use when doing video.

CAMERA SET UP 

So with my Sony A7RIV on my tripod I used my 55mm Zeiss f/4.0 lens and tethered this into CaptureOne on my iPad, which works an absolute treat!

It’s incredibly easy to set up; you literally plug one end of a USB-C cable into the camera, the other end into the iPad, and with the app open i’st connected and ready to go.

I’m using this all the time now when tethering and what I also love about it is that you can stop and start the monthly subscription whenever you want. The subscription is only £4.49 / month so I tend to look at what I have planned and just restart it for that period, then cancel it again.

The only thing I don’t like which might (I hope) be just down to a setting I’ve missed turning on, but the photographs you take are only stored on the iPad. I only discovered this after the first shoot I did using it. I disconnected the camera and went to check the images on the camera and nothing was there. Only once my heart re-started and I looked on my iPad did I realise where they were 😳

---

CAMERA SETTINGS

The settings dialled into my camera were …

• f/4.0

• 1/60 sec

• 2000 ISO … which for modern day cameras is nothing
  

using the iphone

Having taken the portrait with my Sony I then swapped over to my iPhone which was placed on the tripod using the ULANZI ST-27 Phone Mount.

I also attached the 2x Telephoto lens from ReeFlex to the 1x lens on my iPhone using one of their cases that has threads in each of the lens apertures.

The 1x lens is the equivalent of 24mm and is the only lens on the iPhone capable of shooting in ApplePro Raw at 48MP … the highest resolution and largest file my iPhone 15 Pro Max can produce.

With the 2x Telephoto lens attached this made the 1x lens the equivalent of 48mm and did this optically rather than digitally, and so doing everything possible to create the best possible file; not quite 55mm but the closest I could get oto it optically.

iPHONE PRO CAMER APP

To take the photograph with my iPhone I used a Pro Camera App from ReeFlex and called ReeFlex.

This app like most other pro camera apps gives you control over extra settings like Shutter Speed and ISO but it also makes it very clear to see not only what file format you are in but also the resolution.

ReeFlex Pro Camera App usinfg 1x lens in Apple ProRaw at 48MP

However here’s the catch …

If when you’re using the 1x lens in Apple ProRaw at 48MP you make changes to the shutter speed and / or ISO then the file size immediately drops from 48MP to 12MP.

ReeFlex Pro Camera App using 1x lens with Shutter Speed Adjusted

So because of this I opted to leave the iPhone in the AUTO settings which kept the 1x lens in Apple ProRaw at 48MP, and these are the out of camera and out of phone results, with the Sony image on the left and the iPhone image on the right …

Now at this 100% magnification the iPhone file, although different to the Sony file, certainly looks to be holding up.

However, it’s when you zoom in on that iPhone file that things look VERY different …

Look how the file looks soft and slightly out of focus. Look how the file lacks texture and detail in Ian’s skin, his hair and the wood panelling.

Apple ProRaw

This softening appearance to the image is all because of shooting in the supposed highest resolution settings, AppleProRaw at 48MP and that’s because Apple ProRaw isn’t like a traditional Raw file as we know and understand them.

You see Apple ProRaw files do actually receive some processing such as Noise Reduction ( quite al lot ) and Smart HDR, so the file we end up with is also a blend of a number of images at different exposures taken and processed increibly quickly.

So not REALLY a Raw file as you would expect 🤷‍♂️

topaz sharpen ai

Running the file thorugh Topaz Sharpen AI does recover alot of that lost detail as you can see here …

However knowing what Apple ProRaw does to your files does arm you with a bit of knowledge so that you can make the decision to use it or not.

Depending on how serious you are about your iPhone photography you might want to consider shooting in 12MP Raw which Pro Camera apps like Moment and ReeFlex allow you to do …

Naturally we always want the highest resolution file possible but the noise reduction that Apple ProRaw does, might make you reconsider.

12MP Bayer raw files

Currently ALL Raw Long Exposure apps produce 12MP Bayer Raw files and that’s what all of my seascape images are and I’m more than happy with them.

Sure more resolution would be good but until that time, these 12MP Bayer Raw files are very acceptable …

So acceptable in fact that Digitalab even printed one of my iPhone seascapes at 72” on the longest side and it looked incredible …

final retouched portraits

Here though are the final retouched portraits with the Sony file on the left and the iPhone file on the right, and yeah the Sony file is definitely better and that’s to be expected, but looking at the iPhone file the future is going to be VERY interesting indeed!

wrapping up

So more testing to be done which will be interesting as new iOS updates come along and the iPhone 16 later this year.

In the mean time I’m going to carry on taking seascapes with my iPhone because I really enjoy doing them BUT I’ll also be taking them with my Sony too.

As for Portraits I’ll keep taking them with my iPhone but only as an extra bit of fun and experimentation when taking them with my Sony.

Catch you next time
Glyn

---

iPhone Photography using Neutral Density Filters ... Why ???

With the rise in popularity of mobile photography, a new industry has developed producing add-ons such as grips to make using your iPhone more like using a regular camera along with bluetooth shutter buttons, lenses, filters and more.

I’ll cover lenses in future posts and videos but for now I just wanted to concentrate on filters … in particular ND (Neutral Density) filters.

I’m writing this on Day 1 of the KelbyOne iPhone Photography Conference for which I’m presenting 2 classes, namely … …

• Capturing Pro Quality Portraits

• Essential Gear for the Modern iPhone Photographer

It was in the preapration for both of these sessions that I did A LOT of testing and research and in the process learned a lot more, or rather uncovered a lot more about the iPhone.

UnderStanding Neutral Density Filters

First, let's grasp the concept of neutral density filters. These accessories are essentially pieces of glass that reduce the amount of light entering the camera lens without affecting the color or hue of the image. They are commonly used in photography to achieve effects such as blurring motion in bright conditions or using wide apertures in daylight.

I’ve used them in the past many times with my main camera, my Sony A7RIV when venturing out taking seascape images such as this one here at Trevose Head in Cornwall.

Using Neutral Density Filters made it possible for me to correctly expose the image with a 2 second exposure to give motion and blur to the waves as they crash against the rocks …

I’ve also used them with my Sony to capture this 30 second exposure of Teignmouth Pier in Devon …

long exposure seascapes with my iphone

Over the past year or so I’ve been capturing seascapes more and more with my iPhone thanks to apps like ReeXpose that make all of this possible by instead of the need for Neutral Density Filter, computatiopnally blending a series of images together to create the long exposure effect … and doing so incredibly quickly.

The app works incredibly well and allows the user to capture exposures from ½ second all the way to Bulb Mode, and using it I’ve taken what I consider my best seascape images to date …

Lyme Regis

Blend of ½ Second and 1 Minute Exposures in Photoshop taken with ReeXpose Long Exposure App

Lyme Regis

1 Minute Long Exposure using the ReeXpose Long Exposure App

Prince of Wales / Severn Bridge over the Bristol Channel

1 Minute Long Exposure using the ReeXpose Long Exposure App

The ReeXpose app produces Raw files, but like every other long exposure app available at the moment, those are limited to 12MP Bayer Raw files, which despite not sounding much by todays standards, are very acceptable and workable. Digitalab even printed one of my iPhone long exposure 12MP Bayer Raw File images at 72” on the longest edge, and it came out looking great …

However, despite being 12MP and me being VERY happy with the results I wish there was a way to produce 48MP long exposure files from my iPhone using these kind of apps but that’s just not possible at the moment.

So when I got hold of the new range of Neutral Density Filters from ReeFlex for use with my iPhone it got me thinking …

Would it be possible to use the Neutral Density Filters with one of the Pro Camera Apps that are available so that I could use them to shoot at 48MP in Apple ProRaw AND slow the shutter down … basically capture a long exposure the traditional way? I mean why else would there be Neutral Density filters available for the iPhone?

close but no cigar

So can it be done?

Well, the short answer is NO.

You see first of all when using the iPhone along with one of the Pro Camera Apps available like ReeFlex, Moment, CameraPixels and so on, if you set them to shoot at 48MP in Apple ProRaw and then adjust the exposure using the Shutter Speed or ISO, the file instantly drops to 12MP.

The only adjustment you can make and keep in 48MP is using the EV (Exposure Vlaue) slider which is basically the equivalent of dragging your finger on the screen to brighten or darken image as you would in the native Apple iPhone camera app, so no good for long exposure.

If you leave the settings alone though and then just add on the Neutral Density filters, sure enough you can slow the shutter down … but don’t get too excited, because no matter how many Neutral Density filters you stack on top of each other, the shutter speed will NOT go slower than 1/15 sec

Even with all the ND Filters I have stacked on front of my iPhone … 1/15 sec is all that’s possbile in ProRaw at 48MP.

Oh and by the way that’s 29 Stops of Neutral Density right there 😳

ReeFlex Pro Camera App
48MP ProRaw in AUTO

If you make ANY changes to the Shutter Speed or ISO then the file drops to 12MP …

ReeFlex Pro Camera App
12MP ProRaw

So looking at this, with the way the current iOS works, what is the point of Neutral Density FIlters for Photography with the iPhone?

If you want the scene darker or brighter then you could just use the EV slider and that would remain in Apple ProRaw at 48MP, but you can’t take the shutter speed slower than 1/15sec and remain in 48MP. Period!

are all 12mp files the same?

Now if we just accept the whole 48MP and 12MP thing how about this …

Raw Long Exposure Apps for the iPhone do so by computationally blending a series of shots to create the final long exposure image as a 12MP Bayer Raw File.

You can see this really clearly when you set a ½ second exposure time.

Look at the image below and notice the overlapping of files. You don’t notice this at longer exposure times but with fewer images taken at a faster long exposure (if that makes sense) it makes it harder to blend together … because there’s less files to overlap.

You do need to really look to see it but once you do, you can’t un-see it as shown in the zoomed in image below …

So here then is my thinking, which I hasten to add I am popping out tomorrow morning to test …

Accepting that if I use manual controls the file will drop to 12MP, what if I use the Neutral Density Filters to get a correct exposure with a shutter speed of ½ second or the maximum of 1 second?

Thinking of this in really basic terms … as that’s not being used to blend images together, it should in theory produce a single shot long exposure right? When I’m sat in my office with the phone in those manual settings and move it around the image is blurry so that should work for moving objects like the sea right?

I’ll keep you posted with the testing once I’ve been out tomorrow.

Just to add though … the slowest shutter speed you can set is 1/1 sec so for anything longer than that it calls for one of the long exposure apps that does the computational blending thing.

Apple Proraw isn’t really raw

Whatever the technical reason / limitations there are for this I really do hope in the near future this is overcome, otherwise Apple continually calling the camera system “Pro” could start to get a little bit "Boy who cried Wolf” if you know what I mean.

That said though, because of how Apple ProRaw works, there may well be times you wouldn’t want to use it anyway because of the processing it applies to the files i.e. Noise Reduction and Smart HDR.

I’m going to be covering that very soon in another article and video.

ND FILTERS WITH iPHONE FOR VIDEO ???

This is a definite YES though and I’ll be covering that in a post and video VERY soon.

Right, I’ll go charge my filming kit for tomorrow and keep you posted once I’m done with the testing 👍🏻

Photographing STEAMPUNK | The World of Historical Science-Fiction | Gary Nicholls

Watch the recording of this LIVE Broadcast as I chat with my friend, Artist Storyteller and Author with a Camera, Gary Nicholls talking about his process, how he finds models, inspiration for his images and exhibiting …

Links mentioned in the video

Gary Nicholls’ website: g-n-p.co.uk

Gary Nicholls on Instagram: @artimaginarium

Gary Nicholls’ Imaginarium on Facebook: faceboom.com/artimaginarium